They had started the 20th century with no fins, just dipping their feet in
the water to steer, then the single fin ruled for the best
part of four decades, and then twin fins came into vogue -
and finally in the 1980s three fins on a surfboard became
the new Holy Grail.
In truth, shapers had experimented with three fins ('bonzer'
boards) for years, but it was Simon Anderson's 'thruster'
set up that would set the standard for the next twenty years.
As the 1980s started to kick in with it garish fluro wetsuits
and clothing, surfing went ballistic. In the UK, glossy full-colour
magazines like Wavelength, Surf Scene and Carve were launched,
reflecting the growing popularity of surfing here.
Surfing was big and brash.
1989 would be another proud year for British surfing when
the charismatic Martin Potter clinched the world professional
title on Hawaii's infamous north shore - a surfer who is still
competing today.
Surfing continued to grow in Britain through the late 1980s
and 1990s as longboards became more and more popular again
- allowing many more people to enjoy the pleasures of the
ocean.
Concern about Britain's appalling pollution all around this
maritime isle's coastline prompted the launch of the environmental
pressure group Surfers Against Sewage.
In a decade they changed (many) water companies attitudes
towards sewage treatment and help steer (most of) them away
from the pump and dump mentality. Now they sit alongside British
and European government ministers helping to decide policies
to protect our precious seas.
In the late 1990s The Surfer's Path magazine started up and
soon became the country's bible of soul surfing - focusing
on the stoke, art and culture of the sport as no British publication
had done before. It now has a worldwide readership as surfing's
boundaries become ever more blurred.
Today we have a flourishing surf scene with stars like Russell
Winter, Robyn Davies and Sam Bleakley who tour the world competing
- and tens of thousands of 'ordinary' people (no true surfers
are 'ordinary') surfing on every coast of Britain whenever
there's a hint of a swell.
Now in the 21st Century it's a multi million pound industry,
as the marketing men push the lifestyle image of surfing to
the limits. In Britain today you can hardly switch on the
TV, turn the corner of a street, or the page of a mainstream
publication, without seeing some sort of representation of
surfing.
Surfboards now come into the country from major shapers all
over the world, but hidden in surfing communities all over
Britain small 'backyard' businesses still make boards to keep
their local surfers in the water.
Here at the home of The Surfing Museum in Brighton we have
Steve Darch at Filf, who's shaped boards for British Masters
Champion Cliff Cox and top women's surfer Heather Colebrook.
Just one small fish swimming successfully in a very big ocean
of surf manufacturers.
Around Britain, names like Tiki, Gulf Stream, Nine Plus, Custard
Point, Fluid Juice, Snugg and Second Skin are just a handful
of the British companies at the forefront of keeping a hungry
home market supplied with the latest surfboards and wetsuits.
Retro is the new cool, with surfers delving back into the
sport's past for inspiration to take them to new levels of
stoke. As with so much in our modern lives, what's old is
new again, and so we turn full circle (a nice roundhouse cutback
perhaps).
You can only imagine what Captain James Cook would have thought
today if he sailed up the east coast of England to his native
Yorkshire, only to see some rubber-clad soul pulling into
a thick brown barrel.
Who knows where it will all lead. But when you pick up your
modern surfboard and paddle out for just one more wave, remember
the decades of surfers who went before you and make up the
proud heritage that has made surfing in the UK what it is
today.
Extracts from "Cold Water Soul, a History of British Surfing"
by Peter Robinson.
Copyright © 2003 The Surfing Museum Ltd. All rights reserved.
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